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“后老佛爷时代”:Chanel的焦虑才刚刚开始

http://schzxs.com 时间: 2019-10-22 六盘水新闻网

  2019NIAN1YUE22RI,Chanel 2019CHUNXIAGAODINGXILIESHIZHUANGXIUZAIBALIDAHUANGGONGRUYUEERZHI。HEWANGNIANDEDAXIUYIYANG,ChanelBAOCHILEZUIGAOSHUIZHUN,DANLINGRENJIAOLVDESHIQINGFASHENGLE,“BUKENENGQUEXI”DEZHUJIAO,PINPAIYISHUZONGJIANKarl LagerfeldBUJIANZONGYING。SHANGTAIXIEMUDESHIZAIChanelGONGZUOLEJIN30NIANDECHUANGYIGONGZUOSHIZONGJIANVirginie Viard。DUIYUTADEQUEXI,PINPAIFAYANRENJIESHIDAO:“Karl LagerfeldYINZHANGQIGONGZUO,SHENTIGUOYULAOLEIERQUEXI。”

  “SHEISHIChanelDEJIEBANREN”CHENGWEIGEDASHISHANGMEITIDETOUBANTOUTIAO。SHENZHIHAIYOUCHUANWENCHENG,JINQIChanelZAIRitzJIUDIANJUBANDEGAODUANZHUBAOKEHUWANYANSHANG,“SHEILAIJIEBANKarl Lagerfeld”SHENGYINLUOYIBUJUE。

  SHIJISHANG,“SHEINENGJIEBANChanel”KUNRAOYEJIEYIJIU。ZHEIGENANTITOULUZHEYEJIEHEDAZHONGDEDANYOU——LAOFOYELIKAI,ChanelHETADEZHONGSHIYONGHUSHIFOUYIJINGZHUNBEIHAOYINGJIE“HOULAOFOYE”SHIDAI?

  ChanelDEBUBIANvsSHISHANGQUANDEJUBIAN

189彩票app  Karl LagerfeldQUSHIDEXIAOXIGONGBUZHIHOU,ChanelDEZHIXINGZONGCAIAlain WertheimerZHEIYANGDAONIANTA:

189彩票app“Karl LagerfeldYIQICHUANGYICAIHUA、KANGKAIJINGSHENHEMINRUIGUORENDEZHIJUELINGXIANYUSHIDAI,JIDADICUJINChanelPINPAIZAIQUANQIUFANWEINEIDAHUOCHENGGONG。SHANGSHIJI80NIANDAICHUQI,WOQUANQUANWEITUOTAZHONGSUChanel。ERJIN,WOSHIQULEYIWEIZHIYOU,WOMENSHIQULEYIWEIWEIDADESHEJISHI。”

  Karl LagerfeldDUIYUChanelDEYIYIBUBIDUOSHUO,“HUANXING”“ZHENGJIU”“ZHONGSHENG”“ZHONGSU”......ZHEIXIEHONGDADECIYUYONGZAITASHENSHANGDOUBUGUOFEN,YINWEIDAJIAJIANXIN,“MEIYOUKarl LagerfeldDEChanelJIANGBUZAISHIChanel”。

  1983NIAN,49SUIDEKarl LagerfeldCHENGWEIChanelDEZHANGDUOZHE。YINWEICHUANGSHIRENCoco ChanelDELISHIDUIPINPAIYINGXIANGGUOYUSHEN,DAOZHIPINPAIXIAOCHENLEJIN12NIAN。ERKarl LagerfeldHUANXINGLEZHEIGECHENSHUIDEMEIREN,DIANFULECoco ChanelSHIDAIDEChanel。ZAIHOULAIDEJISHINIANLI,TAJIANGZIJIQIANGLIEDEGERENFENGGEDAIDAOPINPAIDANGZHONG,BINGJIANGChanelDAIDAOLEBUKEDIANFUDEXINGYEDIWEI。

189彩票app  DANSHI,DANGChanelDEBUBIANYUDAOSHISHANGQUANDEJUBIANSHI,ChanelYUDAOLEMAFAN。

  ChanelHEKarl LagerfeldDOUHENZHOU,BUJINBUHUIWEIYINGHEDAZHONGSHICHANGZUORENHEGAIBIAN,YEBUQINGYIXIANGSHANGLIUJINGYINGSHEHUITUOXIE。

189彩票app  2017NIANNIANCHU,AOSIKABANJIANGLIQIANXI,ChanelHEAOSIKAZUIJIANVYANYUANJIANGTIMINGDEMEILIER·SITELIPU(Meryl Streep)YINWEIYIJIANJIAZHI10WANOUYUANDEGAOJIDINGZHILIFUNAODEHENBUYUKUAI。DANGSHI,YOUKarl LagerfeldQINZIWEIMEIYILIANGSHENDINGZUODELIWUCAOTUYICHU,DANTAQUEYINWEIChanelJUJUEWEIQICHUANZHEPINPAILIWUFUFEI,JIANGChanelHEKarl Lagerfeld“JUZHIMENWAI”。

  DUIYUCISHI,Karl LagerfeldFEICHANGWUNAI,TADUIMEITIBIAOSHI:“ZHEISHIYUANZEWENTI。”“WOMENKEYIXUANZEZENGSONGLIFUJIMeryl Streep,DANJUEBUHUIWEICIERFUFEI。”ZHIHOU,PINPAIZHENGSHIDUIWAIXUANBULEQIJIANSHOUDEYUANZE:JUEBUFUFEIZANZHUMINGXINGCHUANPINPAIDEFUZHUANGCHUXIHUODONGJINXINGXUANCHUAN。

  ChanelDEDINGWEIHEJIANSHOUYINGDELEXINYU。2016NIAN,ZAIBrandwatch AnalyticsQUNIANDUIGEDASHECHIHESHISHANGPINPAIDEXINYUZHISHUPINGGUZHONG,ChanelYI396DEGAOFENJIBAILELV,CHENGWEI2016NIANZUIYOUXINYUDESHECHIPINPAI。

  RANER,SHISHANGJIEFENGYUNBIANHUA,XINGYECHONGMANBIANSHU。GEDASHECHIPINJITUANSHENSHIDUSHI,DAFUDIAOZHENGLEZIJIDEZHANLVEJIHUA,TAMENYUANYIFANGXIAZIJIBAINIANLAOPINPAIDEGAOAOZITAI,WEILEYINGHESHICHANGZUOCHUBIANGE。JIETOUCHAOLIUCHENGWEIJINXIENIANDE“XINCHONG”,Louis VuittonHESupremeDAGAOHEZUO。CIHOU,ZUIHUOCHAOLIUPINPAIOff-WhiteCHUANGSHIRENVirgil AblohGENGSHITIAOQILouis VuittonNANZHUANGCHUANGYIZONGJIANDEDALIANG。

189彩票app  KAIYUNJITUANCEO Francois-Henri PinaultJIUCENGSHUOGUO:“QIANXIYIDAIHEZSHIDAIDOUSHIWEILAIDESHECHIPINXIAOFEIZHE,TAMENBUTAIZAIHUPINPAIDIYUN,ERSHIDANGXIAYUPINPAIDEHUDONG,XIANGYAODUYIWUER。”

  Gucci CEO Marco BizzarriYEFABIAOGUOLEISIDEYANLUN:“RUJINDESHIJIEBIANHUATAIKUAI,MOSHOUCHENGGUIGENBENJIUBUSHIYIZHONGXUANZE。WOMENBINGBUWANMEI,DANSHIWOMENZAIJINZUIDANULILAIWANSHANWOMENZHENGZAIZUODESHIQING。”

189彩票app  YUELAIYUEDUODESHECHIPINPINPAIJIARUDAOLEZHEICHANGJILIEDEZHENGDUOZHANZHONG。XIANRAN,SHECHIPINPAIZAIRUOHUA“SHECHIPIN”GAINIAN,MOHUZHEIGEXINGYEGUYOUDEJIEXIAN。

  RANER,ChanelQUEJUJUEGENSUI,BUYAOSHUOGAIBIANPINPAICELVE,SHENZHILIAN“SHUZIHUA”DOUZUOBUDAO。ChanelSHIZHUANGBUMENZONGCAIBruno PavlovskyCENGSHUOGUO:“ChanelDEZUIJIATIYANSHIFASHENGZAIJINGPINDIANZHONG,WOMENBUQUEDINGXIAOFEIZHESHIFOUNENGGOUTONGGUOLENGBINGBINGDIANZIPINGMUWANQUANLIJIEWOMEN。”

  ChanelDE“BUHEQUN”ZHIJIEFANKUIZAILEYEJIBAOBIAOSHANG。

  2018NIAN6YUE,ChanelSHOUCIGONGBULEWANZHENGCAIBAO。CAIBAOXIANSHI,Chane l2017NIANSHOURU96.2YIMEIYUAN,JIAO2016NIANZENGZHANG11.5%。2017NIAN,ChanelJINGLIRUNWEI17.9YIMEIYUAN,TONGBIZENGZHANG18.6%。CIWAI,CICIPILUHAIRANGWAIJIEKANDAOLEChanelJUDADEXIANJINCHUBEI——22YIMEIYUAN。

189彩票app  DANZIXIKANKANZHEIFENCAIBAOJIUFAXIAN,MEIZHUANGHEXIANGSHUICAISHIChanelZUIZHUANQIANDEYEWU。CONGGONGKAISHUJULAIKAN,ChanelDESHIZHUANGBUMENZEYANXUTUISHI。HUXIUCENGFAWENZHICHU:Chanel 2017NIANDEYINGYELIRUNLVYUE30%,ERJUGONGKAISHUJUGucci2017DEYINGYELIRUNLVYUE46.9%。ZAOCHENGYEJICHAJUDEYUANYINZHIYI,SHIGucciJIJIYONGBAODIANSHANG,ERChanelZEBUJINRAN。

189彩票app  ZAIKANKANChanelDUONIANBUBIANDESHEHUAXIUCHANGJIUZHIDAO,ChanelYUNIANQINGYIDAIDELIEHENHETUOJIEYUJIAMINGXIAN。ZHIMINGPINGLUNRENAna AndjelicJIUCENGFAWENZHIZEChanel:“GUOYUQIANGDIAOXIUCHANGBUZHIDEChanelZHENGZAIWUDAOSHECHIPINPAIDEWEILAIZOUXIANG,LINGSHISHANGBIANDEYUELAIYUELIUYUBIAOMIANQIEJINGBUQITUIQIAO”。

  ZAISHECHIPINHANCHAODE2015~2016NIAN,ChanelYEGUODEBUHAO。2015CAINIAN,ChanelJITUANXIAOSHOUEWEI62.4YIMEIYUAN,TONGBIXIADIE17%;YINGYELIRUNWEI16YIMEIYUAN,TONGBIXIADIE23%。2016CAINIAN,ChanelJITUANXIAOSHOUEDA56.7YIMEIYUAN,TONGBIXIAHUA9%;JINGLIRUNWEI8.74YIMEIYUAN,TONGBIXIADIE35%。JINGLIRUNLVBAODIE,YOU21.5%DIEZHI15.4%。YINGYELIRUNBAODIE20%ZHI12.8YIMEIYUAN。YINGYELIRUNLVBAODIE320GEJIDIANZHI22.5%。

  DUIYULIANXULIANGNIANDEYEJIXIAHUA,YEJIERENWEI,PINPAIZAICHUANGXINFANGMIANZUODEBUGOU,CHIXUDEDAZHEYEDUIPINPAISHANGYUZAOCHENGLEYIDINGDEFUMIANYINGXIANG。

  SHOUDAOXINGYEBIANHUAHEYEJIXIAHUADEYINGXIANG,ChanelYEJINXINGLEYIXIECHUANGXIN,DANSHIFENWEIXIAO,BAOKUODUIPVCMIANLIAO、JIETOUFENGGEDECAIYONG。RANER,ChanelSHENRURENXINDEPINPAIXINGXIANGRANGRENSHIZHONGJIANGTAGUILEIDAOCHUANTONGDESHIZHUANGPINPAI。BENZHISHANG,Karl LagerfeldDESHEJIMEIYOUFASHENGGENBENXINGBIANHUA。CIJUBEIWAIJIERENWEISHIChanelNIANQINGHUADEJIAXIANG。

  XINJINGBAOCENGZHICHU:

ZAIBUSHAOYENEIRENSHIMENKANLAI,ChanelDEZHEIYIJIANSHOUSHIJISHANGSHIBA“SHUANGRENJIAN”:“LAOFOYE”ZAISHISHI,ChanelDEYONGDUNHEHEXINGOUMAIRENQUNHUITEBIEWENDING,DANLAOFOYEYIDANQUSHI,ZHEIBUFENRENDELIUSHIJIANGSHIPINPAIDUANQIZHINEIBIXUYAOZHIMIANDEWENTI。

189彩票app  HUIDAO2018NIAN6YUEDENEIFENCAIBAOSHANG。YAOZHIDAO,NEISHIChanelCHUANGLI108NIANDIYICIDUIWAIGONGBUCAIBAO,WEISHENME?GUANYUChanelSHIFOUHUIBEISHOUGOUDECHUANWENYIZHICUNZAI,WAIJIEDUIYUGONGSIDEYEJICHIYOUHUAIYITAIDU。DUIWAI,ChanelXIWANGZHENGMINGZIJIDECAILI。“BEISHOUGOU”DECHUANWENBUGONGZIPO,DANYETOULULEChanelDEDANYOU——ChanelDAPOBAINIANLAIDEGUANLIYIJINGSHUOMING,ChanelKAISHIZAIYIYULUNLE。

  YANXUHAISHIDIANFU,KENENGYONGYUANSHIGE“NANTI”

189彩票app  QUNIAN,《NIUYUESHIBAO》SHIZHUANGZONGJIANVanessa FriedmanZAIYIPIANMINGWEI《Anna WintourHOUDESHISHANGSHIJIE》DEWENZHANGZHONGXIEDAO:“Anna WintourLIRENDECHUANWENWUYIJIFALERENMENDEXIANGXIANG,RUGUOMEIYOUAnna Wintour,SHISHANGSHIJIEJIANGBIANCHENGSHENMEYANG? ”TONGYANG,Karl LagerfeldDUIYUChanelDEYINGXIANGYESHIXIANGTONGDE。

189彩票app  SHISHANGTOUTIAOWANGCENGZHEIYANGPINGLUN:

189彩票app  RUJINRENMENXIYIWEICHANGDE“SHISHANG”ZHENGSHIZAIKarl LagerfeldDENGYIZHONGPINPAI、SHEJISHIHESHISHANGMEITIZAIGUOQU30NIANJIANGOUDEGAINIAN,DANSHIZAIYIGECHONGMANBUQUEDINGXINGDEXINSHIDAI,SHISHANGHUOXUBINGBUYIDINGBIXURUCI。YOUFENXIRENSHICHENG,RUGUORENMENYIJINGKAISHIYUCEAnna WintourDESHISHANGSHIJIE,NEIMEZHEIGESHIJIEYEJIANGSHIYIGEHOUKarl LagerfeldDESHIJIE。

189彩票app  YIGERENDUIYUYIGEPINPAIDEYINGXIANGLIGUOYUSHENYUAN,DAODISHIHAOHAISHIHUAI?ZHEIGEHUATIYIZHIKUNRAOZHESHISHANGJIEDERENSHIMEN。YIGEJUYOUQIANGLIEGERENFENGGEDESHEJISHIDUIYIGEPINPAICHANSHENGLESHENYUANDEYINGXIANG,DANGBIANGELAILIN,DUOSHURENSHIWUFAJIESHOUBIANHUADE。

  CelineQIANRENSHEJIZONGJIANPhoebe PhiloLIZHIYIJINGSHUOMINGLEYIQIE。CONGLogoDAOFENGGE,Hedi SlimaneYIZHIZAIQIANGSHIDI“JIAOYU”ZHEXIAOFEIZHE,TABUHUIMANZUYUYANXUCelineYIWANGDEGEDIAO,YINWEITABUXIANGZUOPhoebe PhiloDE“YANXUZHE”。Hedi SlimaneWEIDAILAIDECeline“GAIGE”YINQILEBUSHAOPhoebe PhiloSIZHONGFENDEQIANGLIEBUSHI,TAMENJUJUEWEIXINRENSHEJISHIMAIDAN。JIUMUQIANLAIKAN,CelineDEDUANQIYEJIYIJINGSHOUDAOLEYINGXIANG。

189彩票app  DUIYUChanelLAISHUO,“HOULAOFOYESHIDAI”DEJIAOLVCAIGANGGANGKAISHI。

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